Building Tips
Everything you need to know before starting your first hockey stick build — from stick dimensions and screw selection to cutting techniques and clock movements.
Philosophy
"The designs on this website won't use any primary building materials besides hockey sticks and pucks... No plywood, no pine, no cheating."
Every project on this site is built using hockey sticks as the primary structural material. The goal is to create real, functional furniture and clocks entirely from sticks and pucks — not to use them as decoration on top of conventional materials. This constraint is what makes each piece unique and challenging to build.
Safety
Always think safety. Using circular saws, mitre saws, drills, and routers can be dangerous and result in injury. Always follow equipment operation instructions and wear proper PPE:
- Gloves — for handling cut sticks (sharp edges)
- Ear plugs — power tools are loud
- Safety goggles — flying debris from cuts
- Dust mask — especially when routing pucks (vulcanized rubber dust)
Stick Specifications
Senior wooden hockey sticks have fairly consistent dimensions:
| Dimension | Measurement |
|---|---|
| Width | 1 5/32″ |
| Height | 3/4″ |
| Max length (shaft) | ~55″ |
Stick materials: composite, wood, wood with fiberglass coatings, aluminum.
Sizes: youth, intermediate, junior, senior. The projects on this site use senior sticks.
Dimensions vary slightly from stick to stick. The author doesn't traditionally use stick blades in builds — only the shaft portion.
Fastening with Wood Screws
Wood screws are the primary fastening method for hockey stick furniture. Here's what you need:
Screw Sizes
| Screw Size | Use Case |
|---|---|
| #4 | Clocks (lighter loads) |
| #6 | Standard furniture joints |
| #8 | Heavy-duty furniture joints |
Screw Lengths
- 1.25″ — when drilling through the 3/4″ dimension (shorter orientation)
- 1.5″ — when drilling through the 1 5/32″ dimension (longer orientation)
Plan on a box of about 100 screws — some will get stripped or lost along the way.
Process
- Drill a pilot hole first to prevent splitting
- Countersink the top for flush seating using a countersink bit
- Drive the screw in firmly
Always countersink your screw holes. Without countersinking, the screw head sits proud of the surface and creates an uneven finish. With countersinking, you get a clean, flush surface.
Cutting Techniques
Mitre Saw
The shaft of the stick must be placed firmly across the rail for its entire length when making the cut. A template method is recommended for consistency — cut one stick to size, then use it as a reference for all remaining cuts of the same length.
Best for smaller cuts; less suitable for cutting large flat assembled surfaces.
Circular Saw
Produces the best, most even cut on assembled pieces. Know your saw's guide width and use it as a parameter setter for precise, repeatable cuts.
Clamp a spare stick at the end of each of your cuts with the circular saw to prevent blowout (splintering at the exit point). Account for blade width in your measurements, and use a straight edge guide when needed.
Pre-Assembly Prep
"Make sure you clamp all sticks together first before screwing in the cross beam attachment pieces... You'll notice that a lot of the spaces that naturally occur because the sticks aren't perfectly parallel should disappear. Do everything you can to avoid gaps."
Framing Edges
Frame edges use 45-degree angle cuts to create clean mitered corners. Key tips:
- Use the exact same type of stick — same manufacturer and model — for all frame pieces
- Match aspect ratios carefully. "Even the same manufacturer, Bauer and Bauer... didn't guarantee it"
- Oversize your 45° cuts initially, then slowly work your way down in length until all four corners match up
"You can't test enough times!" Dry-fit all four corners before any glue or screws. Trim incrementally until perfect.
Clock Movements
All clock projects on this site use the MVT7130 clock movement.
Shaft Specifications
Clock shaft lengths generally don't exceed 15/16″, so dial thicknesses can't be much more than 3/4″.
Puck Routing
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Puck thickness | 1″ |
| Routing depth | 9/32″ |
| Purpose | Clearance for clock hands |
Vulcanized rubber is basically pulverized when being routed and forms a fine dust. Always wear a dust mask when routing pucks.
If there is a slope or unevenness of the inner plane relative to the face of the puck, the movement shaft might not fit. Take your time for a flat, even routing surface.
Hand Sizing
The minute hand should extend to just about the edge of the dial face but not exceed it. A good rule: the minute hand length should be about 2/3 the radius of the dial.
Hand clearance is not an issue when using sticks as the dials — sticks are thinner than pucks.
Composite Sticks
Composite sticks require special techniques for cutting, drilling, and fastening due to their layered carbon fiber construction. They produce fine dust particles and can delaminate if not handled properly.
For complete details on working safely with composites, see the dedicated guide:
Building with Composites Guide